Frequently asked questions

How do I care for the shapes?

The shapes are made of wood. with proper use, they can last many times. Be sure to let the molds dry between each use. The time to make your works and remove them from the mold is the same as working with plaster molds. If you let it sit too long it will crack, the mold will mold and become soft. Should something have gone wrong and mold has developed it can be easily removed with a damp cloth or sponge with some dish soap. If the edges become too rough you can use some sandpaper to make them smooth again.

What are the forms made of.

We are proud of the fact that our molds are made of safe wood. It took us more than a year to find the right wood that meets the EU and USA guidelines regarding emissions.

The molds are made of high quality MDF. This makes them suitable for many uses. Be sure to let them wear between each use. The time to remove the work from the mold is the same as working with plaster molds. If the work is left on the mold too long it will crack, the mold will mold and become soft. Mold can be easily removed with a damp cloth or sponge with some dish soap. If the edges become too rough you can use some sandpaper to smooth them out again.

The cut beveled corner of the board makes them durable and economical. They can be used over and over again and give you a tool to create your own personalized objects. The shapes are designed shallow so they are versatile in use, with some of the shapes being stackable. This allows you to create many models with a small number of shapes.

How to prevent warping / deformation. Method:

• Rolling the clay

Clay has a memory. Make sure the clay is properly rolled / kneaded to remove this memory and increase the plasticity of the clay

• Clay plate.

Make a plate of clay with the clay roller or a roller and sticks.
Turn the clay plate regularly a quarter turn in between so that the clay is not always stretched to the same direction. This prevents warping. Make use of a smooth cloth that you put under the clay so that the clay plate is easier to lift when it is still very wet (e.g. an old sheet).

• Rest

Place the clay plate on a wooden, preferably unpainted wooden board (moisture-resistant glued plywood works best). The duration depends on conditions such as temperature and humidity, and of course the condition of the clay. I myself sometimes let the clay rest for 20 / 30 minutes, but with very wet clay this can go up to 2 or 3 hours.

• Compression

Use a lomer to perform compression on the clay plate. Doing this in different directions helps prevent warping. Turn the clay plate over and do the same on the other side.

• Texture/structure

This is the time to decide if you want another nice texture. Perhaps from a crocheted rug, a roller with texture or things from nature.

• Shape

Lay the clay plate face down over the shape. Now close the plate to the mold with gentle pressure as much as possible and remove all folds.
Then use a soft rubber lomer to make your plate/bowl. Work from the outside in as much as possible to keep enough clay on the edge of the plate, but use enough compression so that the shape is easily visible.

• Foot / stand ring

Use the foot maker to make several equivalent strips of clay. Make scratches on the plate/bowl, shape the foot or stand ring and secure it with water/slip. Plates and bowls made with a size of 9.5 inches (+/-24 cm) or larger get multiple supports (feet) or a double stand ring to prevent the plate from warping. You can use a modeling spatula to neatly finish the edge along the foot or stand ring.

• Edge

If you have a rim template, you can go along the rim template with a clay harp or small needle to define the edge of the board. Keep the harp and clay straight. If you don't have a rim template, you can, of course, always set the edge by hand.

• Raised edge

Many people find a slightly angled rim more beautiful. You can achieve this effect by first removing the rim template and then placing the plate or dish on a spacer / filling block. Now gently press the rim down.

• Leatherhard

Our molds have a beveled edge and are made so that you can rest the work without difficulty. The drying clay naturally pulls up on the mold. Wait until the clay is leather-hard (the shape releases by itself). Leather-hard means that you should be able to leave a mark when you press a finger nail into the clay, but it should not be possible to make an impression in the clay with your fingertip. The moment the clay is leather hard you can lift it from the mold. If the clay bends or warps while removing it from the mold then you took it off too early. We have found that removing the mold too early is the biggest cause of objects deforming and warping. If the clay is cracked you have waited too long. Anyone who has worked with clay a little longer knows how difficult it is to be there “at the right time,” but removing the shape at the right time cannot be underestimated. 

Make sure the work is not too close to a heater or fan, put it out of a draft, don't use a hair dryer, or don't place it in bright sunlight. The total time again depends on the conditions of the clay and the room and can range from 2 hours to as much as 4 or 8 hours.

Even drying is very important. Placing under plastic can sometimes cause uneven drying.

• Finishing

Remove the mold, and place it on the base/stand ring. Now apply slight pressure to smooth out any bulge that may have formed.
Use the surform to even and smooth the edges
Use the special inside of the rounding liner to obtain a nice rounding and even smoother edge. You can also use a sponge if necessary, but make sure the work does not get too wet.

Now there is an opportunity to use a nice underglaze or carve your clay.

Now let the work continue to dry. I always let my works dry in a mini greenhouse. They are then on an open rack so that top and bottom dry evenly. 
 

When placing the plates and dishes in the oven please pay attention to the following things:
- do not let plates stick over the edge of the oven tray (the airflow along the tray is higher than in the center of the tray and the plate may warp)
- Do not fire too quickly. Clay must freshen, give it time to do so
- Also pay attention to cooling. Very large works? then use a cool-down firing menu.
 

For working with clay there is the general rule; take your time, don't rush things!

How is the dimension determined?

The dimension is determined by the largest dimension of the shape itself. The standard depth is 19 mm. If you want a deeper form, it is possible to stack some forms, each stacking makes the form 19 mm deeper. Look at our stacking forms for these options.

We advise not to glue the shapes together to obtain deeper shapes. If you want to make very deep shapes it is better to use plaster molds.

Our Thin series are only 12 mm deep. 

How do I avoid “seams” when making deeper bowls and platters by stacking some shapes on top of each other?

Unfortunately, the disadvantage of stacking the shapes is that small seams will appear between them.

The simplest thing to do is to remove these seams, at the leather-curing stage, with an iron looper and smooth the forms.

My foot ring is tearing loose how can I prevent this? 

Our experience shows that there are two most common causes for the foot ring tearing or coming loose

The first has to do with the fact that the workpiece is not yet dry enough and there is too much of a rush for a cookie firing. Make sure the workpieces are really completely dry before firing.

The second is when the foot/edge is set with a clay that is either wetter / or drier than the workpiece itself. This creates tension between the foot and the workpiece causing it to crack or loosen.

It is very important to make sure that both the foot and the workpiece contain the same amount of water to ensure maximum adhesion. In addition, ensure adequate scoring of the workpiece and foot before bonding them together with water/slip

Can you ship outside of Europe?

We can. We can basically ship all over the world. If your country is not listed, please contact us.

Is your answer not listed here?

Please send an email to info@potteryformseurope.com